Hook decided to back off so Henry could have a happy family. Neal invited Emma to lunch, she didn't come. Hook got drunk and made a pass on Tinker, but she knew it was only because he couldn't have Emma. Emma saw the two of them together and was jealous. Maybe I'm too negative, but I'm getting the feeling that she doesn't want to be with Neal anymore.
The rest was mostly about Snow and Charming in the Enchanted Forest (right after the wedding), trying to cut Medusas head off to turn Regina to stone. PP released the shadow and it killed Blue. To find out how he could controll the shadow from within the box, they let Henry out and found out about the switch. Pan stole the curse from Reginas vault and the episode ended with him saying that he would cast the curse, everyone would forget who they are and he'd turn SB into the new Neverland.